TREKKING
Equipment overview

Boots

• Weight:
Generally speaking, look for the lightest boots you can find without compromising durability and support. The leading manufacturers are using the latest technology to help achieve this.

• Water resistance:
Look for materials that breath and allow moisture to leave but not enter the boot. Full leather boots have long been the choice of the serious trekker. These can be treated regularly with a sealing agent like 'Sno-seal'. Although new hi tech materials are becoming popular.

• Support:
Your boots should help prevent your feet and ankles from twisting on uneven surfaces. They should also prevent your feet from over bending when excessive pressure is placed on the toe or heel. The boots should also have enough longitudinal flexibility to support the arches natural spring action.

Trekking poles

Eventually you will make the decision to trek with either 2, 1 or 0 poles.

The choice of whether or not to use trekking poles is purely personal but most serious trekkers tend to use at least one.

A trekking pole is basically a balancing aid but despite the fact that it is basically a walking stick, today's modern poles have evolved into quite sophisticated instruments. They are strong, lightweight and come in a wide variety of grip styles. They are fully adjustable and the top of the range models even come with adjustable shock absorbing systems. These systems can be very beneficial in keeping balance in extremely uneven conditions such as river crossings and the kind of terrain often found when trekking in the Himalayas. Most poles include a variety of optional accessories such as 'baskets' (which are attachments used to prevent the poles from sinking into mud or snow), replaceable tips, rubber tips and transit bags.

Packs

There are 6 main pack types suitable for trekking:

• Waist Packs:
Volume: up to 10 litres:
Waist packs are ideal for short treks of only a few hours they can be used instead of a day pack. These put virtually no strain on your body because they are located near the curve of the spine near your centre of balance. An overloaded waist pack will begin to sag in which case you will be better off with a day pack.

• Hydration Packs:
Volume: up to 10 litres:
Hydration packs consist of a bladder and drinking tube around which the pack is constructed. Some hydration packs include compartments, making them a kind of a hydration/daypack cross. Camelbak is one of the best known manufacturers of hydration packs.

• Day Packs:
Volume: 15-35 litres:
Day packs, as the name implies these are used for day treks where a minimum of equipment is needed and there is no chance of the trekker being forced to spend a night in the outdoors.

• Midsize Packs:
Volume: 35-70 litres
Midsize packs are ideal for the trekker who needs to carry extra gear on a day trek. For example a solo trekker who is planning a full daybreak to sunset trek in unfamiliar terrain. This trekker needs to take extra provisions incase he/she is forced to spend an unplanned night in the bush.

• Full Size Pack/Expedition Pack:
Volume: 60 litres and up:
Full size/expedition packs come in a wide variety of designs depending on their intended use. There are packs specifically designed for high altitude mountaineering, multi day trekking, backpacking and more. Before purchasing one of these packs consider carefully the kind of equipment that you will need to carry. The wrong decision here could be an expensive mistake!

• Photographers' Packs:
These come in a wide variety of styles and sizes. As the name suggests they are purpose built for outdoor photography enthusiasts and professionals. Like expedition packs the purchaser must give careful consideration to ALL the equipment that needs to be carried and NOT just the camera gear. The best known and possibly the most respected manufacturer of these specialised packs is Lowepro.

Sleeping Bags

Choosing the right sleeping bag is a very personal matter, and at times it can be a complicated decision. There are all kinds of variables to consider:

• Shape:
Nowadays most sleeping bags are 'mummy' shaped. This is the most efficient shape as it minimises the amount of air around the body that needs to be kept warm. The down side of the mummy shape is that it forces you to sleep on your back which is uncomfortable for some people. Also, some people are inclined to feel a bit claustrophobic in this shaped sleeping bag. Many manufacturers give dimensions in the shoulder, hip and foot areas.

• Fill material:
The sleeping bag's fill material is what gives it it's power to insulate. A good fill material should:

• Be able to retain air.
• Be compact when compressed.
• Be able to insulate when wet.
• Be lightweight.
• Be quick to expand.

Fill material falls into two main categories:

1. Down
Goose Down is considered to be one of the highest quality fill materials scoring high with most of the points mentioned above. It does have a couple of down sides though. It loses most of it's insulating properties when wet and it can be quite expensive.

Natural fills like Down are free flowing, so to stop them from ending up in a pile at the bottom of the sleeping bag, the manufacturers incorporate baffles into the bag. These are rows of stitching about 10-15cm apart that create channels. The fill resides within these channels.

2. Synthetic:
Synthetic fills are designed to try to mimic the positive qualities of Down while at the same time they are much more efficient when wet. Additionally they are generally cheaper.

• Comfort rating:
Most sleeping bags have comfort ratings to help you decide on which is right for your intended use. These ratings are measured in degrees. i.e. +5, 0, -5 etc. These refer to the lowest temperature that you can expect a comfortable night's sleep. Bear in mind that these are a guide only and that there are many factors that will determine this in an outdoor environment.

• Weight/Packed size:
When purchasing a sleeping bag for trekking use it is vitally important that weight and packed size be given serious consideration You will need to strike a compromise between insulating power and weight. Generally speaking, the lighter and more compact the compressed bag, the less insulating power it will have. Keep in mind though that manufacturers are continually striving to improve the efficiency of their products and we are beginning to see some better power-to-weight sleeping bags coming onto the market.

• Zippers:
Zippers should be waterproof and have good draft flaps to prevent drafts entering the bag. This is something that is very easy to overlook when buying your first sleeping bag, but one night with a drafty zipper will ensure that you won't make the same oversight on your second purchase.

• Pillow Pockets:
Some sleeping bags come with pillow pockets that can accommodate an inflatable pillow or some kind of stuffing like clothing.

• Sleeping pad connectors:
These can be used to attach your sleeping pad to if your are the kind of person that rolls around a lot

Sleeping pads

There are several types of sleeping pad on the market but there is really only one worth talking about for the serious trekker and that is the self-inflating pad. The self-inflating pad is basically a layer of high density foam fused between two layers of airtight skin. The foam consists of hundreds of "dimples". When the mat is unrolled, the foam expands causing the dimples to fill with air which is automatically drawn in through the mouth tube, hence the name "self-inflating". The mouthtube is there for impatient trekkers who can't be bothered waiting for the pad to self inflate. These pads are extremely light weight and compact and offer an unsurpassed level of comfort for that all important good night's sleep. They come in a range of sizes from small to extra large. The extra large in the Therm-a-Rest brand (and probably others) can be doubled over for twice the comfort.

Tents

The down side of technology is that the more advanced a product becomes, the more complicated and confusing a purchase can be. Tents of course are no exception. To simplify things, we'll break it down:

• Tent Types:
There are dozens of modern tent types on the market today, but there are really only two that the trekker needs to be concerned with; Wedge tents and dome tents.

• Wedge tents:
These consist of a rectangular floor with two flexible hoop supports spanning from one corner to the other. These are good for trekking because they combine good strength with light weight. They are quick and easy to erect.

• Dome tents:
These consist of a hexagonal or octagonal floor with three or four hoops. These are much stronger than wedge tents but also heavier and more complex to erect.

• Supported Seasons:
Tents are usually categorised in "seasons".
4-season tents are designed to withstand the harshest weather conditions all year round from sunshine to blizzard conditions

3-season tents are designed to handle spring, summer and autumn but will not stand up to serious winter conditions.

2-season tents are designed for the warmer months and not intended for rough conditions.

• People capacity:
Beware of the number-of-person classifications that are given to tents. Remember that a two person tent classification refers to the number of people that will fit in while sleeping. Usually this does not take into account all the gear that will be in there with you. A solo trekker will usually find that a two person tent will be ideal.

• Ventilation:
This is a very important factor when purchasing a tent. The best ventilation is achieved with a tent that has a double skin consisting of a waterproof outer fly. The inner skin should have a breathable mesh incorporated into it. Also a window of some sort is often a good idea.

Materials:
• Hoops/Poles
These are usually made of either, carbon fibre, fibreglass or aluminium-alloy tubing. Carbon fibre is the preferred choice as it is strong and light weight and it is for this reason that it is commonly used in race car construction.

• Fabric:
Most tents today are made from nylon or polyester taffeta.

Fabric characteristics:
• Fabric weight
Denier measures the weight of the fabric in grams per 1000m length. 50d would be considered a lightweight fabric.

• Weather resistance:
A tent's ability to repel rain is measured in PSI (pounds per square inch). The higher the number, the better the protection.

There are many tents on the market today. It's a matter of choosing a reputable brand with the right characteristics to suit your intended purpose.

Clothing

Generally speaking, all clothing is intended to serve basically the same purpose. That is, to keep us warm and dry and protect us from the elements. At least that was the original idea back when our ancestors lived in caves. Since then fashion has taken hold and now it seems to take preference over functionality. It is for this reason that most fashion based clothing is virtually useless in the real outdoors. It is also for this reason that high tech specialised outdoor clothing has needed to evolve. The serious outdoors person views clothing in much the same way as our ancestors did and for much the same reasons. As you will see we have come a long way since mammoth hide.

The science of outdoor clothing is quite a complex one but with a little research and guidance you should have no trouble putting a system together.

• Layering:
Nowadays Most outdoor clothing manufacturers base their products around the three layer system. This system has been proven to work most efficiently in all outdoor conditions from a half day walk at sea level to summit day on Everest.

• Base Layer:
The base layer is the first layer that you put on and therefore is the layer that comes in contact with the skin. The purpose of the base layer is to prevent after exercise chill caused when the body sweats and the moisture is retained by the material. This is particularly the case with cotton T-shirts. You end up standing around shivering in a soaking wet garment. The base layer is made of a material that possesses a 'wicking' property that has the ability to move the moisture away from the skin for evaporation. The materials used in base layers are constantly changing as manufacturers continually utilise better technology.

• Insulation Layer:
The next layer to go on is the insulation layer. The purpose of this layer is to retain body heat by creating a layer of still air around the body. This air aids in decreasing the loss of heat to the outside world. Popular materials on the market at the moment are:

• Fleece:
This is a polyester based product. The material is passed through a 'napping' machine which rakes up the fabric creating a tight solid weave on one side and a fluffy air retaining surface on the other.

• Bunting:
This is fleece that has been napped on both sides.

• Pile:
This is fleece that has undergone extra napping to produce a much thicker open fabric.

These materials also posses similar wicking properties as base layer materials.

• Outer Shell:
As the name suggests the outer shell is your first line of defense from the outside elements. It needs to be tough, durable, shock absorbing, windproof and waterproof. It also needs to have breathable qualities that allow body moisture to escape.

The most famous of the breathable, weatherproof materials used in modern outer shells today is Gore-Tex. Developed in 1976, Gore-Tex utilises a membrane of petrochemical polymer called polytetraflourethylene (PTFE). The material works by using a pore size small enough to prevent water from entering but large enough to allow water vapour to escape from the inside.

The three layer system allows you to add or subtract garments depending on the prevailing conditions.

Trekking Socks

It's understandable that a beginner might overlook the importance of socks. After all a sock is just a sock right? Well, like everything else to do with outdoor apparel it's not quite that simple.

A thin pair of ordinary socks might be more than sufficient for a long day at the office, but a long day on the trail?, Well, that's a whole new ball game.

Purchasing specialised trekking socks is a ritual that is taken very seriously by the seasoned outdoors person, and for good reason. The wrong choice of socks can ruin your trekking holiday and could leave you with blisters that can become infected especially if you are trekking through a third world country.

Modern hi tech socks are often made of several different materials within the one sock with extra thick sections in the toes and heels to deal with added friction in these areas. Also stretchable materials can be found in the calve section. There are also socks that are designed specifically for extreme cold conditions and can play a major role in helping to prevent frostbite.

Manufacturers will often print details about the sock's intended usage on the packaging. Make a point of reading these details.

The most common materials used in today's trekking socks are: wool, cotton, silk, acrylic, polyester, polypropylene, nylon, teflon, lycra and spandex.

Fuel stoves

Fuel stoves come in a variety of designs and most trekkers all have their favourites. When choosing a stove there are a number of things to consider, but there are two main things that should dominate your choice: How practical is the stove going to be for your intended use, and how safe is it to operate.

There are various types of outdoor stoves but the ones most popular for trekking are:

• Butane gas stoves:
Butane is less volatile than propane at normal temperatures which means that it can be purchased in non-refillable cartridges. In addition, these stoves are compact and simple to set up and operate. These stoves are ideal for trekkers because they lend themselves well to cooking or boiling water during a quick stop along the trail. The two main drawbacks with this type of stove are that the fuel cartridges are heavy when full and they are not all that good in cold temperatures.

• Methylated spirits/alcohol stoves:
These are a very simple and cheap stove. They offer reasonable performance for the money invested. They are simple in design and require no priming or pressurising The main drawback with these stoves is safety. These stoves produce a flame which can be hard to see. There have been reports of people receiving serious injuries from attempting to refill these stoves while still alight.

• Kerosene/white spirit stoves:
Many trekkers consider these stoves to be the best choice for trekking. The most popular brand for these is MSR (Mountain Safety Research) and the most suitable stove in the range is the Dragonfly.

These stoves are generally the most sophisticated in design and consequently the most expensive. They consist of three main parts:

• The burner:
This is a stand-alone unit that consists of the burner plate, heat generator, temperature regulator (Dragonfly only in the MSR range),pot support, automatic jet cleaning mechanism and external fuel line.

• Pressure pump/flow regulator tap:
This unit screws into the top of the fuel bottle and is also the connecting point for the external fuel line. There is a plunger that is used to pressurise the fuel bottle in order to force the fuel down the line and into the stove.

• Fuel bottle:
This is depressurised and separated from the stove for transit between camps and the pressure pump is left in place. Additional fuel bottles of various sizes can be carried for long treks.

The MSR Dragonfly is a particularly good unit as it is high quality and reliable. It burns very hot and has a heat adjuster for simmering. It is also very fuel efficient. The down side of this type of stove is that it takes a bit of fiddling to set up. While this is not a problem at camp, It can make the unit a little impractical if you feel like a quick cuppa along the trail or if distance to camp prevents anything longer that a quick lunch break.

IMPORTANT NOTE
The MSR Dragonfly and similar stoves require priming. This process is explained in detail in the instruction manual that comes with your stove.

Trek preparation >