MOUNTAINEERING
Equipment
overview In
this section we will be looking at some of the main pieces of equipment used in
mountaineering.
Ice
axe
The
ice-axe
is
the standard tool of the mountaineer. It is used to gain purchase on steep slopes
and to help keep balance on uneven ground. In the event of a fall, the climber
uses the ice axe as a brake when performing a self-arrest. Ice axes are also used
as anchors in crevasse rescue situations.
Ice
hammer
An
ice-hammer
is
similar to an ice axe but with a couple of differences. Firstly an ice hammer
is usually shorter. It also has a hammer head in place of the adz that is normally
found on an ice axe. This is used to drive in snow stakes. Also, ice hammers are
available with either straight or bent shafts depending on their intended usage.
Ice hammers are often used in pairs when climbing vertical or near vertical ice.
Mountaineering
boots
Nowadays
modern mountaineering
boots
are
available in both leather and double plastic varieties. Double plastic boots are
the choice of the Himalayan mountaineer as they are better suited to extreme cold
conditions. Double plastic boots consist of a waterproof outer plastic section
and an inner boot. The inner boot is made up of layers of insulating material
such as Thinsulate that offers protection against frostbite.
Crampons
Crampons
are
simply a set of metal spikes that attach to your mountaineering boots. Their purpose
is to help you grip the snow and ice. There are various types and styles of crampons
but a general purpose 12 point set with front points are suitable for general
mountaineering work.
Harness
The
job of a harness
is
to keep you attached to the climbing rope. There are different types of harnesses
for different types of climbing. Mountaineering harnesses are usually a simpler
design than most other harnesses so as to reduce weight and bulk. They are normally
made of material that resists the absorption of water and have highly adjustable
waists and leg loops to allow for bulky clothing.
Rucksack
Like
harnesses, mountaining
rucksacks,
also
known as backpacks, are usually of a simpler design than other rucksacks. They
usually only consist of a single main compartment and have a minimum of zippers.
Mountaineering rucksack always have provision for carrying ice tools and crampons.
These features are essential for mountaineering activities.
Headlamp
A
good quality headlamp
is
an essential piece of equipment in the mountains. It will be one of your most
used pieces of equipment throughout your expedition. Most summit days begin well
before dawn and it will be expected to guide you to the summit. If your headlamp
fails, so will your attempt at the summit.
Goggles/glacier
glasses

It
goes without saying that conditions change quickly and without warning in the
mountains. Without the correct eye protection, you can end up with snow blindness
very quickly. Goggles
provide
the best protection in blizzards and general bad weather. Goggles suitable for
mountaineering should ideally have an anti-fogging mechanism and have no light
leaks around the seals. Glacier
glasses
are
best suited to bright sunny conditions. They must have side protectors to prevent
light entering in at the sides and contributing to snow blindness. Some glacier
glasses come with an optional nose "beak" to prevent sunburn to the
nose.
Gaiters
Gaiters
are
protectors that fit over or around your boots to prevent snow from entering in
through the top.
Helmet
A
climbing helmet
is
essential when climbing in conditions where loose stones can
be
dislodged from above.
Gloves
A
typical glove system consists of layers. Thermal
liner gloves,
outer
mountaineering
gloves
usually
Gore-Tex and in Himalayan conditions, Gortex overmittens
are
usually used.
Climb
preparation >
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