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home

Mountaineering
Getting started
Your first mountain
Skills & techniques
Doing your TMC
Fitness
Food & nutrition
Equipment overview
Climb preparation
Gear check list
Joining an expedition
The effects of altitude
Navigation
Safety & first aid
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Mountaineering

Equipment overview

In this section we will be looking at some of the main pieces of equipment used in mountaineering.

 

Ice axe

Ice axeThe ice-axe is the standard tool of the mountaineer. It is used to gain purchase on steep slopes and to help keep balance on uneven ground. In the event of a fall, the climber uses the ice axe as a brake when performing a self-arrest. Ice axes are also used as anchors in crevasse rescue situations.

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Ice hammer

Ice hammerAn ice-hammer is similar to an ice axe but with a couple of differences. Firstly an ice hammer is usually shorter. It also has a hammer head in place of the adz that is normally found on an ice axe. This is used to drive in snow stakes. Also, ice hammers are available with either straight or bent shafts depending on their intended usage. Ice hammers are often used in pairs when climbing vertical or near vertical ice.

 

Mountaineering boots

Mountaineering bootsNowadays modern mountaineering boots are available in both leather and double plastic varieties. Double plastic boots are the choice of the Himalayan mountaineer as they are better suited to extreme cold conditions. Double plastic boots consist of a waterproof outer plastic section and an inner boot. The inner boot is made up of layers of insulating material such as Thinsulate that offers protection against frostbite.

 

Crampons

CramponsCrampons are simply a set of metal spikes that attach to your mountaineering boots. Their purpose is to help you grip the snow and ice. There are various types and styles of crampons but a general purpose 12 point set with front points are suitable for general mountaineering work.

 

Harness

Climbing harnessThe job of a harness is to keep you attached to the climbing rope. There are different types of harnesses for different types of climbing. Mountaineering harnesses are usually a simpler design than most other harnesses so as to reduce weight and bulk. They are normally made of material that resists the absorption of water and have highly adjustable waists and leg loops to allow for bulky clothing.

 

Rucksack

Rucksack/backpackLike harnesses, mountaining rucksacks, also known as backpacks, are usually of a simpler design than other rucksacks. They usually only consist of a single main compartment and have a minimum of zippers. Mountaineering rucksack always have provision for carrying ice tools and crampons. These features are essential for mountaineering activities.

 

Headlamp

HeadlampA good quality headlamp is an essential piece of equipment in the mountains. It will be one of your most used pieces of equipment throughout your expedition. Most summit days begin well before dawn and it will be expected to guide you to the summit. If your headlamp fails, so will your attempt at the summit.

 

Goggles/glacier glasses

Glacier glassesSki gogglesIt goes without saying that conditions change quickly and without warning in the mountains. Without the correct eye protection, you can end up with snow blindness very quickly. Goggles provide the best protection in blizzards and general bad weather. Goggles suitable for mountaineering should ideally have an anti-fogging mechanism and have no light leaks around the seals. Glacier glasses are best suited to bright sunny conditions. They must have side protectors to prevent light entering in at the sides and contributing to snow blindness. Some glacier glasses come with an optional nose "beak" to prevent sunburn to the nose.

 

Gaiters

GaitersGaiters are protectors that fit over or around your boots to prevent snow from entering in through the top.


Helmet

A climbing helmet is essential when climbing in conditions where loose stones can Climbing helmetbe dislodged from above.

 

Gloves

A typical glove system consists of layers. Thermal liner gloves, outer Mountaineering glovesmountaineering gloves usually Gore-Tex and in Himalayan conditions, Gortex overmittens are usually used.

Climb preparation >


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